This was how my current weekend within the Lake District went: climbed a fell (two, truly), took a lake cruise, explored a fortress and gardens, walked components of a long-distance path, slept in a comfortable glamping cabin, loved tea and muffins (a number of instances), went to the pub (twice). And I did all this with out as soon as utilizing a automotive.
My new finest good friend for the weekend was the Ullswater Bus, a dapper, shiny 16-seater and a brand new trial service that hyperlinks inns, campsites, touchdown phases and points of interest round a lot of Ullswater (the valley and lake share the identical identify), with the purpose of lowering automotive utilization. Because the Lake District’s second-largest lake (after Windermere), Ullswater yearly attracts tons of of 1000’s of holiday makers to get pleasure from its water sports activities, lake cruises, Aira Pressure magnificence spot, and strolling and biking routes. It’s the primary start line for Helvellyn, one of many Lake District’s most-climbed fells at 949 metres, and in addition gives the 21-mile round-lake Ullswater Method strolling route.
Pooley Bridge, sitting prettily on the River Eamont the place water flows out of the lake on the northern finish, is a well-liked village, too – three pubs, 4 cafes, two reward outlets, sensible restaurant-with-rooms, deli, bookstore, village retailer. And all of this lies simply 20 minutes from the M6 Junction 40 at Penrith.
“If we do nothing, we’re going to see actual issues in our lifetime,” asserts Daniel Holder, proprietor of the Quiet Web site eco-friendly tenting and glamping web site above the lake’s northwestern shore, and one of many scheme’s instigators. “The valley will turn out to be gridlocked. It’s a valley of small roads, the identical ones out and in. It will get extremely busy with automobiles in the summertime. We’d like an built-in system, now.”
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Therefore Situ (Sustainable and Built-in Transport for Ullswater), a voluntary group of native residents and parish councils, was born in early 2021. After creating the five-mile Eamont Method footpath that hyperlinks Penrith railway station to Pooley Bridge, the Ullswater Bus was the subsequent goal. Launched in July 2023 as a weekends-only scheme, and financed by group funds, Heritage Lottery, Zero Carbon Cumbria and Westmorland & Furness Council, its three routes are designed to tie in with the 508 Stagecoach service between Penrith and Windermere, and the cross-lake Ullswater Steamers.
One of many joys of a small bus within the Lakes is that not solely are you able to wiggle down slender lanes however benefit from the views, too; take your eyes off the highway when driving and it doesn’t finish effectively. On Saturday morning the bus picked me up from my base on the Quiet Web site, tootled the three-and-a-half miles right down to Pooley Bridge after which continued on to Lowther Fort within the neighbouring valley. On the way in which we collected a retired couple in full strolling rig, whom we deposited in Askham village, beneath the fortress, to stroll again over the fell to Ullswater. “It’s like a taxi service! Lengthy could it proceed,” they cried waving their strolling poles as they stepped onto the pavement.
The fortress – inaccessible by public transport – was as soon as the household seat of the Earls of Lonsdale till the Yellow Earl (1882-1944) went on a spending spree that made the Kardashians appear to be amateurs, and emptied the household coffers. By dint of some canny monetary manoeuvring, a colossal contents sale, removing of the roof and a very impressed “rebirth”, the huge Gothic Revival fortress and its 130 acres have been reinvented as a enjoyable, household day trip. There are quite a few gardens (each in and out), hidden summer time homes, “shock views”, majestic woodlands and an journey playground of ropewalks, zip wires, tunnels and twisting chutes; I caught not less than two dads whizzing down the latter, grinning sheepishly.
After demolishing an enormous scone and flapjack within the fortress’s cafe, I might have waited for the bus to gather me, or employed an e-bike; as an alternative, I walked down by the village and up a wind-whipped Askham Fell to soak up stupendous views over Ullswater. After a few map-reading errors, I adopted the (very apparent) path right down to Howtown on the lake’s southern shore, simply in time for extra tea and scones on the eponymous tearoom earlier than the Ullswater Steamer arrived on the pier to chug again to Pooley Bridge.
Had it been a sun-drenched afternoon, I’d fortunately have waited the hour and a half for the bus to deposit me again on the campsite. As a substitute, I drew on my substantial reserves of scones and flapjack and picked up the Ullswater Method which, very conveniently, passes the campsite after three miles.
The infrequency of the bus is a light irritation of the scheme, although comprehensible: the one bus has to serve all three routes. It requires ahead planning, much more so when you arrive for the weekend by practice at Penrith on the Friday (the service, bear in mind, is at weekends solely). Except your lodging is near the 508 route, you’ll want a taxi or a useful pick-up service such because the one supplied by the Quiet Web site.
Recent pizza, a big glass of malbec within the campsite’s bar – a powerful 18th-century barn stuffed with very agreeable folks – and a blissful evening’s sleep, lulled by the small stream that ran beside the decking of my cabin, and I used to be prepared for my Sunday journey.
I deliberate to discover the bus’s third route, alongside the southeastern shores of Ullswater, on an unforgivingly slender and twisting highway that peters out a few miles past Howtown, thus leaving the southern level of the lake unreachable by visitors on this facet. However, the part near Pooley Bridge “can get fully blocked”, says Holder, as a result of variety of lakeshore campsites and water sports activities centres. Three walkers – Sasha Thomson, companion Steven Atkinson, plus Steven’s mum, Barbara – agreed the bus was invaluable for his or her deliberate Sunday stroll again alongside the Ullswater Method from Howtown. “None of us drive. In any other case, we’d must get the boat, which is costlier. It’s an enormous assist to us.”
I took the bus to its furthest level, simply past Howtown on the foot of some devilish hairpin bends, to Hallin Fell. It’s a brief, steepish climb to its modest 388m summit, however the views, sweeping over the lake and Helvellyn vary, had been exhilarating. Then it was again alongside the Ullswater Approach to Pooley Bridge. I might have continued south from Hallin Fell to stroll in Martindale – a blissfully quiet space I shouldn’t actually inform you about – and spherical to Glenridding on the south of the lake to choose up the hourly 508 bus again to the village. However unsure timing, the potential for map-reading errors plus a practice to catch from Penrith persuaded me to play wise.
Subsequent 12 months, if the trial is profitable, I might in all probability be extra reckless. Plans embody not solely a fourth route but in addition an e-bike pick-up and drop-off scheme. Holder thinks there’s no time to lose. “If we don’t do it now, in 10 years will probably be too late,” he says. However he factors out that it’s as a lot as much as the guests as Situ to make it occur. “It’s a few behavioural change, and that requires effort.” Use it or lose it. So subsequent time you head to the lakes, why not depart the automotive at dwelling and deal with your self to a correct journey?
Journey necessities
Getting there
Trains run direct from London Euston to Penrith in simply over three hours with Avanti West Coast. Manchester, Newcastle and Lancaster are linked to Penrith by way of Northern Rail.
Staying there
Helen Pickles was a visitor of the Quiet Web site; glamping cabins from £90 per evening, different choices from £45.
Extra data
Ullswater Bus runs weekends plus Financial institution Holidays, till the top of October 2023, £2 single, £4 return, youngsters beneath 5 go free.
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